A superb producer of an array of wines in Chassagne-Montrachet, the Niellon Chevalier Montrachet is stunning wine: concentrated, signature-free, and almost digital in definition. This producer rarely, if ever, lets you down.

Superb Bartard from an outstanding producer: strong, intense, and yet – the comment about the Leflaive wines notwithstanding – wonderfully refined. Niellon makes, along with Leflaive, the most stylish Batard, but not at the expense of intensity or depth. A complete wine. Reference standard.

A personal favorite. I am hard pressed to recall a Niellon wine that was not an exemplar of its type. His white Vergers is the biggest, richest version of this vineyard that I know, more than hinting at its proximity to Puligny. Also terrific Chenevottes, contiguous to Vergers yet indisputably different. Tasting Niellon wines ( and Ramonet) reminds one of how good white Chassagne can be—and so raely is. Most others look washed-out or flashy in comparison.